ISO 5162:2023

Textiles — Quality labelling specification for dehaired cashmere

This document specifies the terms and definitions, labelling requirements, test methods, inspection rules, packaging, labelling and test report of pure virgin dehaired cashmere. This document is not applicable to dehaired cashmere tops, skin cashmere, recycled cashmere and products after spinning, including yarns, fabrics, garments, apparel and accessories, household textiles, etc.

Textiles — Spécification d'étiquetage qualité du cachemire épilé

General Information

• Status: Published
• Publication Date: 27-Apr-2023
• ICS: 59.060.10 - Natural fibres
• Technical Committee: ISO/TC 38/SC 23 - Fibres and yarns
• Drafting Committee: ISO/TC 38/SC 23/WG 5 - Fibres - Natural proteins
• Current Stage: 6060 - International Standard published
• Start Date: 28-Apr-2023
• Due Date: 07-Jul-2023
• Completion Date: 28-Apr-2023

Standards Content (Sample)

INTERNATIONAL ISO
STANDARD 5162
First edition
2023-04
Textiles — Quality labelling
specification for dehaired cashmere
Textiles — Spécification d'étiquetage qualité du cachemire épilé
Reference number
ISO 5162:2023(E)
© ISO 2023

---------------------- Page: 1 ----------------------
ISO 5162:2023(E)
COPYRIGHT PROTECTED DOCUMENT
© ISO 2023
All rights reserved. Unless otherwise specified, or required in the context of its implementation, no part of this publication may
be reproduced or utilized otherwise in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, or posting on
the internet or an intranet, without prior written permission. Permission can be requested from either ISO at the address below
or ISO’s member body in the country of the requester.
ISO copyright office
CP 401 • Ch. de Blandonnet 8
CH-1214 Vernier, Geneva
Phone: [phone]
Email: [e-mail]
Website: www.iso.org
Published in Switzerland
ii
  © ISO 2023 – All rights reserved

---------------------- Page: 2 ----------------------
ISO 5162:2023(E)
Contents Page
Foreword .iv
1 Scope . 1
2 Normative references . 1
3 Terms and definitions . 1
4 Quality labelling requirements . .3
4.1 Product classification . 3
4.2 Product type . 3
4.3 Other quality parameters . 4
4.4 Quality labelling . 4
5 Test methods . 4
5.1 Standard atmospheres . 4
5.2 Mean fibre diameter test . 4
5.3 Mean fibre length and short fibre content test . 4
5.4 Guard fibre content test. 5
5.5 Foreign matter content test . 5
5.6 Dark fibre test . 5
5.7 Damaged fibre content test . 5
5.8 Animal fibre, other animal fibre, non-animal matter and polymer matter content
test . 6
5.9 Moisture regain test . 6
5.10 Grease content test . 6
5.11 pH value test . 6
5.12 APEO test . 6
5.13 Calculation of conditioned weight . 6
6 Inspection rules . 6
6.1 Sampling . 6
6.1.1 Lot sample proportion and number . 6
6.1.2 Drawing of samples. 7
6.1.3 Test specimen preparation . 7
6.2 Inspection . 7
7 Packaging and labelling . 7
8 Test report . 8
Annex A (informative) Identification of skin cashmere . 9
Bibliography .13
iii
© ISO 2023 – All rights reserved

---------------------- Page: 3 ----------------------
ISO 5162:2023(E)
Foreword
ISO (the International Organization for Standardization) is a worldwide federation of national standards
bodies (ISO member bodies). The work of preparing International Standards is normally carried out
through ISO technical committees. Each member body interested in a subject for which a technical
committee has been established has the right to be represented on that committee. International
organizations, governmental and non-governmental, in liaison with ISO, also take part in the work.
ISO collaborates closely with the International Electrotechnical Commission (IEC) on all matters of
electrotechnical standardization.
The procedures used to develop this document and those intended for its further maintenance are
described in the ISO/IEC Directives, Part 1. In particular, the different approval criteria needed for the
different types of ISO documents should be noted. This document was drafted in accordance with the
editorial rules of the ISO/IEC Directives, Part 2 (see www.iso.org/directives).
Attention is drawn to the possibility that some of the elements of this document may be the subject of
patent rights. ISO shall not be held responsible for identifying any or all such patent rights. Details of
any patent rights identified during the development of the document will be in the Introduction and/or
on the ISO list of patent declarations received (see www.iso.org/patents).
Any trade name used in this document is information given for the convenience of users and does not
constitute an endorsement.
For an explanation of the voluntary nature of standards, the meaning of ISO specific terms and
expressions related to conformity assessment, as well as information about ISO's adherence to
the World Trade Organization (WTO) principles in the Technical Barriers to Trade (TBT), see
www.iso.org/iso/foreword.html.
This document was prepared by Technical Committee ISO/TC 38, Textiles, Subcommittee SC 23, Fibres
and yarns.
Any feedback or questions on this document should be directed to the user’s national standards body. A
complete listing of these bodies can be found at www.iso.org/members.html.
iv
  © ISO 2023 – All rights reserved

---------------------- Page: 4 ----------------------
INTERNATIONAL STANDARD ISO 5162:2023(E)
Textiles — Quality labelling specification for dehaired
cashmere
1 Scope
This document specifies the terms and definitions, labelling requirements, test methods, inspection
rules, packaging, labelling and test report of pure virgin dehaired cashmere.
This document is not applicable to dehaired cashmere tops, skin cashmere, recycled cashmere and
products after spinning, including yarns, fabrics, garments, apparel and accessories, household textiles,
etc.
2 Normative references
The following documents are referred to in the text in such a way that some or all of their content
constitutes requirements of this document. For dated references, only the edition cited applies. For
undated references, the latest edition of the referenced document (including any amendments) applies.
ISO 137, Wool — Determination of fibre diameter — Projection microscope method
ISO 139, Textiles — Standard atmospheres for conditioning and testing
ISO 1833 (all parts), Textiles — Quantitative chemical test
ISO 3071, Textiles — Determination of pH of aqueous extract
ISO 3074, Wool — Determination of dichloromethane-soluble matter in combed sliver
ISO 17751-1, Textiles — Quantitative analysis of cashmere, wool, other specialty animal fibers and their
blends — Part 1: Light microscopy method
ISO 17751-2, Textiles — Quantitative analysis of cashmere, wool, other specialty animal fibers and their
blends — Part 2: Scanning electron microscopy method
ISO 18254-1, Textiles — Method for the detection and determination of alkylphenol ethoxylates (APEO) —
Part 1: Method using HPLC-MS
ISO 18596, Test method for staple length of dehaired cashmere — Hand-arranging method
ISO 20705, Textiles — Quantitative microscopical analysis — General principles of testing
IWTO-12 Measurement of the Mean and Distribution of Fibre Diameter Using the Sirolan-Laserscan Fibre
Diameter Analyser
IWTO 19 Determination of Wool Base and Vegetable Matter Base of Core Samples of Raw Wool
IWTO-33 Method for the Determination of Oven-Dry Mass and Calculated Invoice Mass of Scoured or
Carbonised Wool
IWTO-47 Measurement of the Mean and Distribution of Fibre Diameter of Wool using an Optical Fibre
Diameter Analyser (OFDA)
3 Terms and definitions
For the purposes of this document, the following terms and definitions apply.
1
© ISO 2023 – All rights reserved

---------------------- Page: 5 ----------------------
ISO 5162:2023(E)
ISO and IEC maintain terminology databases for use in standardization at the following addresses:
— ISO Online browsing platform: available at https:// www .iso .org/ obp
— IEC Electropedia: available at https:// www .electropedia .org/
3.1
raw cashmere
unprocessed down fibre from the fine, soft undercoat or underlayer of live cashmere goat producing
two layers of hair, predominated by fine undercoat down with minor amount of natural foreign matters
(3.8)
3.2
dehaired cashmere
processed cashmere after industrialized scouring and dehairing of raw cashmere (3.1)
3.3
pure virgin cashmere
100 % unused dehaired cashmere (3.2) without any other animal and non-animal fibre, which never
goes through process(es) of dyeing, spinning, knitting or weaving, finishing or chemically treated (such
as bleaching, decolouration, depigmentation etc.)
3.4
skin cashmere
cashmere recovered from the pelts of dead cashmere goat by chemical method or reagents
3.5
recycled cashmere
loose cashmere fibre recollected after going through processing stage(s), such as spinning, knitting,
weaving, finishing, felting or used by consumers
3.6
guard hair
coarser hair in cashmere fibre with diameter ≥ 30 μm
3.7
guard hair content
percentage of mass of coarse fibre with diameter ≥ 30 μm in the total fibre mass
3.8
foreign matter
non-fibrous matter such as soil, dandruff and burrs etc. included in cashmere
3.9
foreign matter content
number of pieces of foreign matters (3.8) in one gram of dehaired cashmere (3.2)
3.10
dark fibre
fibre longer than 5 mm with colour showing obvious difference from the original base colour of
cashmere, including dark fibre and non-white fibre
3.11
short fibre content
percentage of number of cashmere fibres ≤ 15 mm in the total number of a specific mass
3.12
damaged fibre content
percentage of number of fibres showing fibrillation, axial splitting, ruptures, split ends, scale lifting,
kinked bends or other damage in the total number of a specific number of fibres observed
2
  © ISO 2023 – All rights reserved

---------------------- Page: 6 ----------------------
ISO 5162:2023(E)
3.13
non-animal matter
vegetable fibres, chemical fibres and/or other polymer matter (3.15) contained in dehaired cashmere
(3.2)
3.14
other animal fibre
animal fibres other than cashmere in dehaired cashmere (3.2)
3.15
polymer matter
synthetic matter in particles or fragments of polymer matter (such as polypropylene), but not confined
to those derived from packing materials
4 Quality labelling requirements
4.1 Product classification
Based on its natural colour, cashmere is classified into white, grey and brown cashmere, which is
expressed with letter W, G and B, respectively. The characteristics of each type is described as follows:
— white cashmere(W): both cashmere and coarse hair show natural white colour;
— grey cashmere(G): cashmere shows grey, white and light brown colours, coarse hair shows light
brown and white or brown colour;
— brown cashmere(B): cashmere shows brown colour, coarse hair shows dark brown colour.
In the case that different colour types are blended, colour class is assigned according to the darker one.
4.2 Produc
...

ISO/DISFDIS 5162:2022(E)
Style Definition: Heading 1
2022-10-20 Style Definition: Heading 2: Tab stops: Not at 0.63 cm
Style Definition: Heading 3: Tab stops: 1.27 cm, List tab
ISO TC 38/SC 23/WG 5
Secretariat: SACKATS
Style Definition: Heading 4: Tab stops: 1.9 cm, List tab
Textiles — — Quality labelling specification for dehaired cashmere
+ Not at 1.27 cm
Style Definition: Heading 5: Tab stops: 1.9 cm, List tab
+ Not at 1.27 cm
Style Definition: Heading 6: Tab stops: 2.54 cm, List tab
+ Not at 1.27 cm + 1.9 cm
Style Definition: Default Paragraph Font
Style Definition: List Number 1: Tab stops: Not at 0.7
cm + 1.4 cm + 2.1 cm + 2.8 cm + 3.5 cm + 4.2 cm +
4.9 cm + 5.6 cm + 6.3 cm + 7 cm
Style Definition: a2: Tab stops: 0.63 cm, List tab
Style Definition: a3: Tab stops: 1.27 cm, List tab
Style Definition: a4: Tab stops: 1.9 cm, List tab
Style Definition: a5: Tab stops: 1.9 cm, List tab
Style Definition: a6: Tab stops: 2.54 cm, List tab
Style Definition: ANNEX
Style Definition: AMEND Terms Heading: Pattern: 15%
Style Definition: AMEND Heading 1 Unnumbered:
Pattern: 15%
Formatted: French (Switzerland)
Formatted: French (Switzerland)
Formatted: English (United States)
Formatted: English (United States)

---------------------- Page: 1 ----------------------
ISO/DISFDIS 5162:2022(E)
© ISO 2022
All rights reserved. Unless otherwise specified, or required in the context of its implementation,
no part of this publication may be reproduced or utilized otherwise in any form or by any means,
electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, or posting on the internet or an intranet,
without prior written permission. Permission can be requested from either ISO at the address
below or ISO’s member body in the country of the requester.
ISO copyright office
CP 401 • Ch. de Blandonnet 8
CH-1214 Vernier, Geneva
Phone: [phone]
Fax: [phone]
Email: [e-mail]
Website: www.iso.org
Published in Switzerland
ii © ISO 2022 – All rights reserved

---------------------- Page: 2 ----------------------
ISO/DISFDIS 5162:2022(E)
Contents
Foreword . iv
Formatted: Font color: Blue, French (France)
1 Scope . 1
Formatted: Font color: Blue, French (France)
2 Normative references . 1
Formatted: Font color: Blue, French (France)
3 Terms and definitions . 2
Formatted: Font color: Blue, French (France)
4 Quality labelling requirements. 3
Formatted: Font color: Blue, French (France)
5 Test methods . 5
Formatted: Font color: Blue, French (France)
6 Inspection rules . 7
Formatted: Font color: Blue, French (France)
7 Packaging and labelling . 8
8 Test report . 8
Annex A (informative) Identification of skin cashmere . 9
Formatted: Font color: Blue, French (France)
Bibliography . 13
Formatted: Font color: Blue, French (France)
© ISO 2022 – All rights reserved iii

---------------------- Page: 3 ----------------------
ISO/DISFDIS 5162:2022(E)
Foreword
ISO (the International Organization for Standardization) is a worldwide federation of national
standards bodies (ISO member bodies). The work of preparing International Standards is normally
carried out through ISO technical committees. Each member body interested in a subject for which a
technical committee has been established has the right to be represented on that committee.
International organizations, governmental and non-governmental, in liaison with ISO, also take part in
the work. ISO collaborates closely with the International Electrotechnical Commission (IEC) on all
matters of electrotechnical standardization.
The procedures used to develop this document and those intended for its further maintenance are
described in the ISO/IEC Directives, Part 1. In particular, the different approval criteria needed for the
different types of ISO documents should be noted. This document was drafted in accordance with the
editorial rules of the ISO/IEC Directives, Part 2 (see www.iso.org/directives).
Attention is drawn to the possibility that some of the elements of this document may be the subject of
patent rights. ISO shall not be held responsible for identifying any or all such patent rights. Details of
any patent rights identified during the development of the document will be in the Introduction and/or
on the ISO list of patent declarations received (see www.iso.org/patents).
Any trade name used in this document is information given for the convenience of users and does not
constitute an endorsement.
For an explanation of the voluntary nature of standards, the meaning of ISO specific terms and
expressions related to conformity assessment, as well as information about ISO's adherence to the
World Trade Organization (WTO) principles in the Technical Barriers to Trade (TBT), see
www.iso.org/iso/foreword.html.
This document was prepared by Technical Committee ISO/TC 38, Textiles, Subcommittee SC 23, Fibres
and yarns.
Any feedback or questions on this document should be directed to the user’s national standards body. A
complete listing of these bodies can be found at
www.iso.org/members.html.www.iso.org/members.html.
iv © ISO 2022 – All rights reserved

---------------------- Page: 4 ----------------------
FINAL DRAFT INTERNATIONAL STANDARD ISO/DISFDIS 5162:2022(E)

Textiles — Quality labelling specification for dehaired cashmere
1 Scope
Formatted: Tab stops: Not at 0.76 cm
This document specifies the terms and definitions, labelling requirements, test methods, inspection
rules, packaging, labelling and test report of pure virgin dehaired cashmere.
Formatted: English (United Kingdom)
This document is not applicable to dehaired cashmere tops, skin cashmere, recycled cashmere and
products after spinning, including yarns, fabrics, garments, apparel and accessories, household textiles,
etc.
2 Normative references Formatted: Tab stops: Not at 0.76 cm
The following documents are referred to in the text in such a way that some or all of their content
constitutes requirements of this document. For dated references, only the edition cited applies. For
undated references, the latest edition of the referenced document (including any amendments) applies.
ISO 137, Wool — Determination of fibre diameter — Projection microscope method
ISO 139, Textiles — Standard atmospheres for conditioning and testing
ISO 1833 (all parts), Textiles — Quantitative chemical test
Formatted: std_docPartNumber
Formatted: Default Paragraph Font
ISO 3071, Textiles — Determination of pH of aqueous extract
ISO 3074, Wool — Determination of dichloromethane-soluble matter in combed sliver
ISO 17751-1, Textiles — Quantitative analysis of cashmere, wool, other specialty animal fibers and their
blends — Part 1: Light microscopy method
ISO 17751-2, Textiles — Quantitative analysis of cashmere, wool, other specialty animal fibers and their
blends — Part 2: Scanning electron microscopy method
ISO 18254-1, Textiles — Method for the detection and determination of alkylphenol ethoxylates (APEO) —
Part 1: Method using HPLC-MS
ISO 18596, Test method for staple length of dehaired cashmere — Hand-arranging method
ISO 20705, Textiles — Quantitative microscopical analysis — General principles of testing
IWTO-12 Measurement of the Mean and Distribution of Fibre Diameter Using the Sirolan-Laserscan Fibre
Diameter Analyser
IWTO 19 Determination of Wool Base and Vegetable Matter Base of Core Samples of Raw Wool
IWTO-33 Method for the Determination of Oven-Dry Mass and Calculated Invoice Mass of Scoured or
Carbonised Wool
© ISO 2022 – All rights reserved 1

---------------------- Page: 5 ----------------------
ISO/FDIS 5162:2022(E)
Formatted: Left, Line spacing: Exactly 12 pt
IWTO-47 Measurement of the Mean and Distribution of Fibre Diameter of Wool using an Optical Fibre
Diameter Analyser (OFDA)
3 Terms and definitions
Formatted: Tab stops: Not at 0.76 cm
For the purposes of this document, the following terms and definitions apply.
Formatted: Adjust space between Latin and Asian text,
Adjust space between Asian text and numbers
ISO and IEC maintain terminologicalterminology databases for use in standardization at the following
Formatted: English (United States)
addresses:
Formatted: English (United States)
— ISO Online browsing platform: available at https://www.iso.org/obphttps://www.iso.org/obp
Formatted: Font: Times New Roman, 12 pt, English
— IEC Electropedia: available at https://www.electropedia.org/https://www.electropedia.org/
(United States)
Formatted: English (United States)
3.1
Formatted: Adjust space between Latin and Asian text,
raw cashmere
Adjust space between Asian text and numbers, Tab
unprocessed down fibre from the fine, soft undercoat or underlayer of live cashmere goat producing
stops: Not at 0.7 cm + 1.4 cm + 2.1 cm + 2.8 cm +
two layers of hair, predominated by fine undercoat down with minor amount of natural foreign matters
3.5 cm + 4.2 cm + 4.9 cm + 5.6 cm + 6.3 cm + 7 cm
(3.8)
Formatted: Hyperlink, English (United States)
3.2
Formatted: English (United States)
dehaired cashmere
Formatted: Hyperlink, English (United States)
processed cashmere after industrialized scouring and dehairing of raw cashmere (3.1)
Formatted: cite_sec
3.3
Formatted: cite_sec
pure virgin cashmere
100 % unused dehaired cashmere (3.2) without any other animal and non-animal fibre, which never
Formatted: cite_sec
goes through process(es) of dyeing, spinning, knitting or weaving, finishing or chemically treated (such
as bleaching, decolouration, depigmentation etc.)
3.4
skin cashmere
cashmere recovered from the pelts of dead cashmere goat by chemical method or reagents
3.5
recycled cashmere
loose cashmere fibre recollected after going through processing stage(s), such as spinning, knitting,
weaving, finishing, felting or used by consumers
3.6
guard hair
coarser hair in cashmere fibre with diameter ≥ 30 μm
3.7
guard hair content
percentage of mass of coarse fibre with diameter ≥ 30 μm in the total fibre mass
3.8
foreign matter
non-fibrous matter such as soil, dandruff and burrs etc. included in cashmere
3.9
foreign matter content
2 © ISO 2022 – All rights reserved

---------------------- Page: 6 ----------------------
ISO/FDIS 5162:2022(E)
Formatted: Right, Line spacing: Exactly 12 pt
number of pieces of foreign matters (3.8) in one gram of dehaired cashmere (3.2)
Formatted: cite_sec
Formatted: cite_sec
3.10
dark fibre
fibre longer than 5 mm with colour showing obvious difference from the original base colour of
cashmere, including dark fibre and non-white fibre
3.11
short fibre content
percentage of number of cashmere fibres ≤ 15 mm in the total number of a specific mass
3.12
damaged fibre content
percentage of number of fibres showing fibrillation, axial splitting, ruptures, split ends, scale lifting,
kinked bends or other damage in the total number of a specific number of fibres observed
3.13
non-animal matter
vegetable fibres, chemical fibres and/or other polymer matter (3.15) contained in dehaired cashmere
Formatted: cite_sec
(3.2)
Formatted: cite_sec
3.14
other animal fibre
animal fibres other than cashmere in dehaired cashmere (3.2)
Formatted: cite_sec
3.15
polymer matter
synthetic matter in particles or fragments of polymer matter (such as polypropylene), but not confined
to those derived from packing materials
4 Quality labelling requirements
Formatted: Tab stops: Not at 0.76 cm
4.1 Product classification
Formatted: Tab stops: Not at 0.76 cm + 2.38 cm
Based on its natural colour, cashmere is classified into white, grey and brown cashmere, which is
expressed with letter W, G and B, respectively. The characteristics of each type is described as follows:
— white cashmere(W): both cashmere and coarse hair show natural white colour;
— grey cashmere(G): cashmere shows grey, white and light brown colours, coarse hair shows light
brown and white or brown colour;
— brown cashmere(B): cashmere shows brown colour, coarse hair shows dark brown colour.
In the case that different colour types are blended, colour class is assigned according to the darker one.
4.2 Product type
Formatted: Tab stops: Not at 0.76 cm + 2.38 cm
Pure virgin cashmere is classified into five types of A, B, C, D and E based on its corresponding mean
Formatted: English (United Kingdom)
fibre diameter range. It is further sub-classified by combining mean fibre length, short fibre content,
guard hair content and foreign matter content, as shown in Table 1.
Table 1 — — Dehaired cashmere types
© ISO 2022 – All rights reserved 3

---------------------- Page: 7 ----------------------
ISO/FDIS 5162:2022(E)
Formatted: Left, Line spacing: Exactly 12 pt
Foreign Non-animal
Mean fibre Mean fibre Short fibre
Type and Guard hair matter matter (%)
diameter length content
Formatted: Font: Not Bold
grade content (%) ≤ content
(μm) (mm) (%)
(pcs/g)
1 ≥ 36,0 ≤ 19 ≤ 0,15 ≤ 40
2 32,0 - 36,0 19 - 21 0,15 - 0,20 40 - 70
A ≤ 14,9 ≤ 0,02 %
3 28,0 - 32,0 21 - 25 0,20 - 0,28 70 - 100
4 ≤ 28,0 ≥ 25 ≤ 0,35 ≥ 100
1 ≥ 36,0 ≤ 19 ≤ 0,15 ≤ 40
2 32,0 - 36,0 19 - 22 0,15 - 0,25 40 - 70
B 14,9 - 15,9 ≤ 0,02 %
3 28,0 - 32,0 22 - 25 0,25 - 0,30 70 - 100
4 ≤ 28,0 ≥ 25 ≤ 0,60 ≥ 100
1 ≥ 36,0 ≤ 19 ≤ 0,25 ≤ 40
2 32,0 - 36,0 19 - 23 0,25 - 0,30 40 - 70
C 15,9 - 16,9 ≤ 0,02 %
3 28,0 - 32,0 23 - 26 0,30 - 0,35 70 - 100
4 ≤ 28,0 ≥ 26 ≤ 0,65 ≥ 100
1 32,0 - 36,0 ≤ 23 ≤ 0,30 ≤ 40
D 2 16,9 - 17,9 28,0 - 32,0 23 - 27 0,30 - 0,35 40 - 70 ≤ 0,03 %
3 ≤ 28,0 ≥ 27 ≤ 0,70 >70
1 28,0 - 32,0 ≤ 30 ≤ 0,35 ≤ 70
E 17,9 - 19,0 ≤ 0,03 %
2 ≤ 28,0 >30 ≤ 0,80 >70
4.3 Other quality parameters
Formatted: Tab stops: Not at 0.76 cm + 2.38 cm
All types of pure virgin cashmere shall meet the following requirements:
Formatted: English (United Kingdom)
a) Coefficient of variation (CV %) %) of mean fibre diameter ≤ 24 %;
Formatted: Tab stops: 0.7 cm, Left + 1.4 cm, Left + 2.1
cm, Left + 2.8 cm, Left + 3.5 cm, Left + 4.2 cm, Left +
b) No other animal fibre shall be present;
4.9 cm, Left + 5.6 cm, Left + 6.3 cm, Left + 7 cm, Left
c) Dark fibre number for white cashmere: Whiter in white type(L)≤ 15 dark fibres/5 g; Normal white
type(N):16-30 dark fibres/5 g;
d) pH value 6,0 to 7,5;
e) Residual surfactant APEO (OP, OPEO, NP, NPEO) shall be less than 50 mg/kg.
4.4 Quality labelling
Formatted: Tab stops: Not at 0.76 cm + 2.38 cm
Quality labelling codes of dehaired cashmere are composed of the English name of dehaired cashmere,
cashmere-d, colour code (see 4.1 and 4.3 c) for white cashmere only) and type code (see 4.2).
EXAMPLE: Dehaired white in white cashmere with mean fibre diameter 14,9 μm to 15,9 μm, mean fibre length
36,0 mm – 32,0 mm, short fibre content 19 % – 22 %, guard hair content ≤ 0,25 % - 0,30 %, foreign matter content
50 pcs/g, and other parameters meet all requirements described in 4.3, its quality labelling code is “cashmere-d-
W-(L)-B2232”, which represents dehaired white cashmere with less than 15 dark fibres in 5/g of mean fibre
4 © ISO 2022 – All rights reserved

---------------------- Page: 8 ----------------------
ISO/FDIS 5162:2022(E)
Formatted: Right, Line spacing: Exactly 12 pt
diameter type B with mean fibre length grade 2, short fibre content grade 2, guard hair content grade 3 and
foreign matter content grade 2.
5 Test methods
Formatted: Tab stops: Not at 0.76 cm
5.1 Standard atmospheres
Formatted: Tab stops: Not at 0.76 cm + 2.38 cm
The standard atmosphere for conditioning and testing textiles in ISO 139 shall be used.
5.2 Mean fibre diameter test
Formatted: Tab stops: Not at 0.76 cm + 2.38 cm
The mean fibre diameter test shall be in accordance with the methods given in either: ISO 137, IWTO-
12 or IWTO-47.
In case of disputeissues arise concerning the test results, ISO 137 shall be used asto distinguish the
arbitration methodresults.
5.3 Mean fibre length and short fibre content test
Formatted: Tab stops: Not at 0.76 cm + 2.38 cm
The mean fibre length and short fibre content test shall be as described in ISO 18596.
5.4 Guard fibre content test
Formatted: Tab stops: Not at 0.76 cm + 2.38 cm
Condition the test specimen as described in ISO 139 and then take 2 test specimens, mass of each 2 g,
accurate to 0,000 1 g. Place each test specimen respectively onto a board or a flat surface exhibiting
Formatted: English (United Kingdom)
distinctive colour difference from the fibre to be tested. Pick out all the guard fibres in accordance with
ISO 20705. Weigh and record the mass, with an accuracy of 0,000 1 g. Calculate guard fibre percentage
using Formula (1):
Formatted: cite_eq
m
𝑚
𝑐
c
𝐵 = ×100 B=100 (1)
𝑐 c
𝑚
m
where
 is the guard hair content, %;
B
c
B
c
 is the mass of guard hair, in gram (g);
m
c
m
c
m
 m is the mass of test specimen,
...

FINAL
INTERNATIONAL ISO/FDIS
DRAFT
STANDARD 5162
ISO/TC 38/SC 23
Textiles — Quality labelling
Secretariat: KATS
specification for dehaired cashmere
Voting begins on:
2023-01-18
Textiles - Spécification d'étiquetage qualité du cachemire épilé
Voting terminates on:
2023-03-15
RECIPIENTS OF THIS DRAFT ARE INVITED TO
SUBMIT, WITH THEIR COMMENTS, NOTIFICATION
OF ANY RELEVANT PATENT RIGHTS OF WHICH
THEY ARE AWARE AND TO PROVIDE SUPPOR TING
DOCUMENTATION.
IN ADDITION TO THEIR EVALUATION AS
Reference number
BEING ACCEPTABLE FOR INDUSTRIAL, TECHNO-
ISO/FDIS 5162:2023(E)
LOGICAL, COMMERCIAL AND USER PURPOSES,
DRAFT INTERNATIONAL STANDARDS MAY ON
OCCASION HAVE TO BE CONSIDERED IN THE
LIGHT OF THEIR POTENTIAL TO BECOME STAN-
DARDS TO WHICH REFERENCE MAY BE MADE IN
NATIONAL REGULATIONS. © ISO 2023

---------------------- Page: 1 ----------------------
ISO/FDIS 5162:2023(E)
FINAL
INTERNATIONAL ISO/FDIS
DRAFT
STANDARD 5162
ISO/TC 38/SC 23
Textiles — Quality labelling
Secretariat: KATS
specification for dehaired cashmere
Voting begins on:
Textiles - Spécification d'étiquetage qualité du cachemire épilé
Voting terminates on:
COPYRIGHT PROTECTED DOCUMENT
© ISO 2023
All rights reserved. Unless otherwise specified, or required in the context of its implementation, no part of this publication may
be reproduced or utilized otherwise in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, or posting on
the internet or an intranet, without prior written permission. Permission can be requested from either ISO at the address below
or ISO’s member body in the country of the requester.
RECIPIENTS OF THIS DRAFT ARE INVITED TO
ISO copyright office
SUBMIT, WITH THEIR COMMENTS, NOTIFICATION
OF ANY RELEVANT PATENT RIGHTS OF WHICH
CP 401 • Ch. de Blandonnet 8
THEY ARE AWARE AND TO PROVIDE SUPPOR TING
CH-1214 Vernier, Geneva
DOCUMENTATION.
Phone: [phone]
IN ADDITION TO THEIR EVALUATION AS
Reference number
Email: [e-mail]
BEING ACCEPTABLE FOR INDUSTRIAL, TECHNO­
ISO/FDIS 5162:2022(E)
Website: www.iso.org
LOGICAL, COMMERCIAL AND USER PURPOSES,
DRAFT INTERNATIONAL STANDARDS MAY ON
Published in Switzerland
OCCASION HAVE TO BE CONSIDERED IN THE
LIGHT OF THEIR POTENTIAL TO BECOME STAN­
DARDS TO WHICH REFERENCE MAY BE MADE IN
ii
  © ISO 2023 – All rights reserved
NATIONAL REGULATIONS. © ISO 2022

---------------------- Page: 2 ----------------------
ISO/FDIS 5162:2022(E)
Contents Page
Foreword .iv
1 Scope . 1
2 Normative references . 1
3 Terms and definitions . 1
4 Quality labelling requirements . .3
4.1 Product classification . 3
4.2 Product type . 3
4.3 Other quality parameters . 4
4.4 Quality labelling . 4
5 Test methods . 4
5.1 Standard atmospheres . 4
5.2 Mean fibre diameter test . 4
5.3 Mean fibre length and short fibre content test . 4
5.4 Guard fibre content test. 4
5.5 Foreign matter content test . 5
5.6 Dark fibre test . 5
5.7 Damaged fibre content test . 5
5.8 Animal fibre, other animal fibre, non-animal matter and polymer matter content
test . 5
5.9 Moisture regain test . 6
5.10 Grease content test . 6
5.11 pH value test . 6
5.12 APEO test . 6
5.13 Calculation of conditioned weight . 6
6 Inspection rules . 6
6.1 Sampling . 6
6.1.1 Lot sample proportion and number . 6
6.1.2 Drawing of samples. 6
6.1.3 Test specimen preparation . 7
6.2 Inspection . 7
7 Packaging and labelling . 7
8 Test report . 7
Annex A (informative) Identification of skin cashmere . 9
Bibliography .13
iii
© ISO 2022 – All rights reserved

---------------------- Page: 3 ----------------------
ISO/FDIS 5162:2022(E)
Foreword
ISO (the International Organization for Standardization) is a worldwide federation of national standards
bodies (ISO member bodies). The work of preparing International Standards is normally carried out
through ISO technical committees. Each member body interested in a subject for which a technical
committee has been established has the right to be represented on that committee. International
organizations, governmental and non­governmental, in liaison with ISO, also take part in the work.
ISO collaborates closely with the International Electrotechnical Commission (IEC) on all matters of
electrotechnical standardization.
The procedures used to develop this document and those intended for its further maintenance are
described in the ISO/IEC Directives, Part 1. In particular, the different approval criteria needed for the
different types of ISO documents should be noted. This document was drafted in accordance with the
editorial rules of the ISO/IEC Directives, Part 2 (see www.iso.org/directives).
Attention is drawn to the possibility that some of the elements of this document may be the subject of
patent rights. ISO shall not be held responsible for identifying any or all such patent rights. Details of
any patent rights identified during the development of the document will be in the Introduction and/or
on the ISO list of patent declarations received (see www.iso.org/patents).
Any trade name used in this document is information given for the convenience of users and does not
constitute an endorsement.
For an explanation of the voluntary nature of standards, the meaning of ISO specific terms and
expressions related to conformity assessment, as well as information about ISO's adherence to
the World Trade Organization (WTO) principles in the Technical Barriers to Trade (TBT), see
www.iso.org/iso/foreword.html.
This document was prepared by Technical Committee ISO/TC 38, Textiles, Subcommittee SC 23, Fibres
and yarns.
Any feedback or questions on this document should be directed to the user’s national standards body. A
complete listing of these bodies can be found at www.iso.org/members.html.
iv
  © ISO 2022 – All rights reserved

---------------------- Page: 4 ----------------------
FINAL DRAFT INTERNATIONAL STANDARD ISO/FDIS 5162:2022(E)
Textiles — Quality labelling specification for dehaired
cashmere
1 Scope
This document specifies the terms and definitions, labelling requirements, test methods, inspection
rules, packaging, labelling and test report of pure virgin dehaired cashmere.
This document is not applicable to dehaired cashmere tops, skin cashmere, recycled cashmere and
products after spinning, including yarns, fabrics, garments, apparel and accessories, household textiles,
etc.
2 Normative references
The following documents are referred to in the text in such a way that some or all of their content
constitutes requirements of this document. For dated references, only the edition cited applies. For
undated references, the latest edition of the referenced document (including any amendments) applies.
ISO 137, Wool — Determination of fibre diameter — Projection microscope method
ISO 139, Textiles — Standard atmospheres for conditioning and testing
ISO 1833 (all parts), Textiles — Quantitative chemical test
ISO 3071, Textiles — Determination of pH of aqueous extract
ISO 3074, Wool — Determination of dichloromethane-soluble matter in combed sliver
ISO 17751­1, Textiles — Quantitative analysis of cashmere, wool, other specialty animal fibers and their
blends — Part 1: Light microscopy method
ISO 17751­2, Textiles — Quantitative analysis of cashmere, wool, other specialty animal fibers and their
blends — Part 2: Scanning electron microscopy method
ISO 18254­1, Textiles — Method for the detection and determination of alkylphenol ethoxylates (APEO) —
Part 1: Method using HPLC-MS
ISO 18596, Test method for staple length of dehaired cashmere — Hand-arranging method
ISO 20705, Textiles — Quantitative microscopical analysis — General principles of testing
IWTO­12 Measurement of the Mean and Distribution of Fibre Diameter Using the Sirolan-Laserscan Fibre
Diameter Analyser
IWTO 19 Determination of Wool Base and Vegetable Matter Base of Core Samples of Raw Wool
IWTO­33 Method for the Determination of Oven-Dry Mass and Calculated Invoice Mass of Scoured or
Carbonised Wool
IWTO­47 Measurement of the Mean and Distribution of Fibre Diameter of Wool using an Optical Fibre
Diameter Analyser (OFDA)
3 Terms and definitions
For the purposes of this document, the following terms and definitions apply.
1
© ISO 2022 – All rights reserved

---------------------- Page: 5 ----------------------
ISO/FDIS 5162:2022(E)
ISO and IEC maintain terminology databases for use in standardization at the following addresses:
— ISO Online browsing platform: available at https:// www .iso .org/ obp
— IEC Electropedia: available at https:// www .electropedia .org/
3.1
raw cashmere
unprocessed down fibre from the fine, soft undercoat or underlayer of live cashmere goat producing
two layers of hair, predominated by fine undercoat down with minor amount of natural foreign matters
(3.8)
3.2
dehaired cashmere
processed cashmere after industrialized scouring and dehairing of raw cashmere (3.1)
3.3
pure virgin cashmere
100 % unused dehaired cashmere (3.2) without any other animal and non-animal fibre, which never
goes through process(es) of dyeing, spinning, knitting or weaving, finishing or chemically treated (such
as bleaching, decolouration, depigmentation etc.)
3.4
skin cashmere
cashmere recovered from the pelts of dead cashmere goat by chemical method or reagents
3.5
recycled cashmere
loose cashmere fibre recollected after going through processing stage(s), such as spinning, knitting,
weaving, finishing, felting or used by consumers
3.6
guard hair
coarser hair in cashmere fibre with diameter ≥ 30 μm
3.7
guard hair content
percentage of mass of coarse fibre with diameter ≥ 30 μm in the total fibre mass
3.8
foreign matter
non-fibrous matter such as soil, dandruff and burrs etc. included in cashmere
3.9
foreign matter content
number of pieces of foreign matters (3.8) in one gram of dehaired cashmere (3.2)
3.10
dark fibre
fibre longer than 5 mm with colour showing obvious difference from the original base colour of
cashmere, including dark fibre and non-white fibre
3.11
short fibre content
percentage of number of cashmere fibres ≤ 15 mm in the total number of a specific mass
3.12
damaged fibre content
percentage of number of fibres showing fibrillation, axial splitting, ruptures, split ends, scale lifting,
kinked bends or other damage in the total number of a specific number of fibres observed
2
  © ISO 2022 – All rights reserved

---------------------- Page: 6 ----------------------
ISO/FDIS 5162:2022(E)
3.13
non-animal matter
vegetable fibres, chemical fibres and/or other polymer matter (3.15) contained in dehaired cashmere
(3.2)
3.14
other animal fibre
animal fibres other than cashmere in dehaired cashmere
...