oSIST prEN 17961:2023

Mountaineering equipment - Load sharing devices - Safety requirements and test methods

This document specifies safety requirements and test methods for all types of load sharing devices commonly used in mountaineering (climbing and associated activities) and rescue.
This standard does not cover the specific requirements of devices intended for use in slackline applications.

Bergsteigerausrüstung - Lastverteiler - Sicherheitstechnische Anforderungen und Prüfverfahren

Équipement d’alpinisme et d’escalade - Dispositifs de répartition de la charge - Exigences et méthodes d’essai

Gorniška oprema - Naprave za delitev bremena - Varnostne zahteve in preskusne metode

General Information

• Status: Not Published
• Public Enquiry End Date: 23-May-2023
• ICS: 97.220.40 - Outdoor and water sports equipment
• Technical Committee: SPO - Sports
• Current Stage: 4020 - Public enquire (PE) (Adopted Project)
• Start Date: 09-Mar-2023
• Due Date: 27-Jul-2023
• Completion Date: 09-Jun-2023
• Directive: 2016/425 - Regulation (EU) 2016/425 of the European Parliament and of the Council of 9 March 2016 on personal protective equipment and repealing Council Directive 89/686/EEC
• Mandate: M/571 - COMMISSION IMPLEMENTING DECISION of 19.11.2020 on a standardisation request to the European Committee for Standardization and the European Committee for Electrotechnical Standardization as regards personal protective equipment in support of Regulation (EU) 2016/425 of the European Parliament and of the Council
• Ref Project: prEN 17961 - Mountaineering equipment - Load sharing devices - Safety requirements and test methods

Standards Content (Sample)

SLOVENSKI STANDARD
oSIST prEN 17961:2023
01-maj-2023
Gorniška oprema - Naprave za delitev bremena - Varnostne zahteve in preskusne
metode
Mountaineering equipment - Load sharing devices - Safety requirements and test
methods
Bergsteigerausrüstung - Lastverteiler - Sicherheitstechnische Anforderungen und
Prüfverfahren
Équipement d’alpinisme et d’escalade - Dispositifs de répartition de la charge -
Exigences et méthodes d’essai
Ta slovenski standard je istoveten z: prEN 17961
ICS:
97.220.40 Oprema za športe na Outdoor and water sports
prostem in vodne športe equipment
oSIST prEN 17961:2023 en,fr,de
2003-01.Slovenski inštitut za standardizacijo. Razmnoževanje celote ali delov tega standarda ni dovoljeno.

---------------------- Page: 1 ----------------------
oSIST prEN 17961:2023

---------------------- Page: 2 ----------------------
oSIST prEN 17961:2023


DRAFT
EUROPEAN STANDARD
prEN 17961
NORME EUROPÉENNE

EUROPÄISCHE NORM

March 2023
ICS
English Version

Mountaineering equipment - Load sharing devices - Safety
requirements and test methods
Équipement d'alpinisme et d'escalade - Dispositifs de Bergsteigerausrüstung - Lastverteiler - Anforderungen
répartition de charge - Exigences et méthodes d'essai und Prüfverfahren
This draft European Standard is submitted to CEN members for enquiry. It has been drawn up by the Technical Committee
CEN/TC 136.

If this draft becomes a European Standard, CEN members are bound to comply with the CEN/CENELEC Internal Regulations
which stipulate the conditions for giving this European Standard the status of a national standard without any alteration.

This draft European Standard was established by CEN in three official versions (English, French, German). A version in any other
language made by translation under the responsibility of a CEN member into its own language and notified to the CEN-CENELEC
Management Centre has the same status as the official versions.

CEN members are the national standards bodies of Austria, Belgium, Bulgaria, Croatia, Cyprus, Czech Republic, Denmark, Estonia,
Finland, France, Germany, Greece, Hungary, Iceland, Ireland, Italy, Latvia, Lithuania, Luxembourg, Malta, Netherlands, Norway,
Poland, Portugal, Republic of North Macedonia, Romania, Serbia, Slovakia, Slovenia, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland, Türkiye and
United Kingdom.

Recipients of this draft are invited to submit, with their comments, notification of any relevant patent rights of which they are
aware and to provide supporting documentation.

Warning : This document is not a European Standard. It is distributed for review and comments. It is subject to change without
notice and shall not be referred to as a European Standard.


EUROPEAN COMMITTEE FOR STANDARDIZATION
COMITÉ EUROPÉEN DE NORMALISATION

EUROPÄISCHES KOMITEE FÜR NORMUNG

CEN-CENELEC Management Centre: Rue de la Science 23, B-1040 Brussels
© 2023 CEN All rights of exploitation in any form and by any means reserved Ref. No. prEN 17961:2023 E
worldwide for CEN national Members.

---------------------- Page: 3 ----------------------
oSIST prEN 17961:2023
prEN 17961:2023 (E)
Contents Page

European foreword . 3
Introduction . 4
1 Scope . 5
2 Normative references . 5
3 Terms and definitions . 5
4 Safety requirements . 6
4.1 Design and ergonomics . 6
4.2 Stability of tape . 7
4.3 Static strength . 7
5 Test methods . 8
5.1 Design and ergonomics . 8
5.2 Stability of tape test . 8
5.3 Static strength test . 8
6 Marking . 10
7 Manufacturer's instructions and information. 11
Annex A (informative) Standards on mountaineering equipment . 12
Annex ZA (informative) Relationship between this European Standard and the essential
requirements of Regulation (EU) 2016/425 aimed to be covered . 14
Bibliography . 15


2

---------------------- Page: 4 ----------------------
oSIST prEN 17961:2023
prEN 17961:2023 (E)
European foreword
This document (prEN 17961:2023) has been prepared by Technical Committee CEN/TC 136 “Sports,
playground and other recreational facilities and equipment”, the secretariat of which is held by DIN.
This document is currently submitted to CEN Enquiry.
This document has been prepared under a Standardization Request given to CENELEC by the European
Commission and the European Free Trade Association, and supports essential requirements of EU
Directive(s) / Regulation(s).
For relationship with EU Directive(s) / Regulation(s), see informative Annex ZA, which is an integral
part of this document.
3

---------------------- Page: 5 ----------------------
oSIST prEN 17961:2023
prEN 17961:2023 (E)
Introduction
The text of this document is based on the former UIAA-Standard 130:2021 (Union Internationale des
Associations d'Alpinisme / International Climbing and Mountaineering Federation), which was
developed with international participation.
This document is part of a series of standards on mountaineering equipment, see Annex A.
4

---------------------- Page: 6 ----------------------
oSIST prEN 17961:2023
prEN 17961:2023 (E)
1 Scope
This document specifies safety requirements and test methods for all types of load sharing devices
commonly used in mountaineering (climbing and associated activities).
This document does not cover the specific requirements of devices intended for use in slackline
applications.
2 Normative references
The following documents are referred to in the text in such a way that some or all of their content
constitutes requirements of this document. For dated references, only the edition cited applies. For
undated references, the latest edition of the referenced document (including any amendments) applies.
EN 565:2017, Mountaineering equipment - Tape - Safety requirements and test methods
3 Terms and definitions
For the purposes of this document, the following terms and definitions apply.
ISO and IEC maintain terminological databases for use in standardization at the following addresses:
— ISO Online browsing platform: available at https://www.iso.org/obp
— IEC Electropedia: available at https://www.electropedia.org/
3.1
load sharing device (LSD)
apparatus integrating at least 3 possible connections intended to distribute load (see Figure 1)
Note 1 to entry: some types of LSD are known as ‘rigging plates’
3.2
3-way loading
application of equal loading in three different directions
3.3
weakest load bearing orientation
direction or method of loading which, as defined by the manufacturer, supports the lowest minimum
strength defined by the manufacturer

5

---------------------- Page: 7 ----------------------
oSIST prEN 17961:2023
prEN 17961:2023 (E)




a) rigging plate b) openable rigging c) 3D rigging plate
plate



d) ring e) LSD with swivels


f) textile LSD h) daisy chain
g) textile and
metallic LSD

Figure 1 — Example of LSD
4 Safety requirements
4.1 Design and ergonomics
4.1.1 It shall not be possible for a LSD to become detached unintentionally. If any part can be opened
or removed, it shall be designed such that it can only be done after performing at least 3 separate,
consecutive and deliberate manual actions or by the use of a tool.
4.1.2 Where a LSD includes more than one element and for an LSD with elements that can be
adjusted, the design shall be such that those elements cannot appear to be positively locked together
when they are incorrectly assembled or adjusted.
4.1.3 Where a LSD includes another function (connector, rope clamp, etc.) it shall also comply to the
appropriate other applicable text/standard, if existing.
4.1.4 Where stitching is used to provide safety and strength (e.g. in joints) it shall be possible to
inspect it and at least 50 % of the stitching shall contrast with the textile element in colour or surface
appearance.
4.1.5 All edges of a LSD shall be free of burrs and sharp edges.
The internal edges of the hole(s) shall be rounded with a radius larger than 0,2 mm or have a chamfer
larger than 0,2 mm × 45° (see a) in Figure 2).
6

---------------------- Page: 8 ----------------------
oSIST prEN 17961:2023
prEN 17961:2023 (E)
Dimensions in millimetres

Figure 2 — Attachment point eye dimensions
The hole(s) shall have an internal diameter of at least 15 mm (see b) in Figure 2) unless designated for
specific co
...